The long boom turns to bust

Historically, many Australian winemakers have derided the French approach to making wine, especially the idea that the finest wines come only from a terroir—the union of climate and soil characteristic of each place. Australian producers instead pride themselves on what they regard as a less snooty and more democratic approach: blending grapes from different regions to achieve a consistent wine. But some are now asking whether marketing an Australian wine's locality, as much as its grape variety, might not work better.